All rights reserved. Jake Smith © 2019

Royal Christmas: an 1857 print of the arrival of Queen Victoria's Christmas banquet including the stuffed wild boar's head and gigantic game pie.

Potage a la Tête de Veau claire

Calf’s head consommé garnished with truffle quenelles

 cock’s combs and mushrooms

 

Potage a la Cressy

Carrot soup flavoured with celery and ham created by

Charles Elmé Francatelli who was once

Royal Chef to Queen Victoria

 

Les Tranches de Saumon, Sauce Hollandaise

Salmon steaks dressed with Hollandaise Sauce made from

eggs, butter and lemon juice

 

Les Soles à la Colbert

Crumbed fried fillets of sole stuffed with tarragon butter

and served with fried parsley

 

Les Pains de faisans à la Milanaise

Moulds of puréed pheasant meat flavoured with truffles

And dressed in thick a sauce made by blending a tomato

sauce with macaroni, cheese, ham, pickled tongue,

mushrooms and truffles

 

Roast Beef, Yorkshire Pudding

 

Le Dinde à la Chipolata

Roast turkey served with braised chestnuts, glazed pearl

onions, mushrooms, bacon and chipolata sausage slices

all bound in a reduced Madeira Sauce

 

Chine of Pork

 

Les Asperges à la sauce

Asparagus spears dressed in a white sauce

 

Mince Pies

 

Plum Pudding

 

La Geleè d’Oranges à l’Anglaise

Jellied orange flavoured custards served with cream

 

Baron of Beef

 

Wild Board’s Head

(a gift from the Emperor of Germany)

 

Game Pie

 

Brawn

 

Woodcock pie

(a gift from the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord Cadogan)

 

Terrine de Foies Gras

(a gift from the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin)

Dated just seven days apart, these two menus from Queen Victoria’s dinner table confirm the aging monarch was a royal version of an 1800s “economising housekeeper”. Large components of Her Majesty’s  Christmas Day dinner reappear on the menu for New Year’s Day; including the roast turkey, chine of pork, mince pies and plum pudding.

Of course there were slightly more royal Christmas ‘leftovers’ including the whole stuffed wild boar’s head, the Foie-Gras terrine and an unprecedently giant woodcock pie that all flanked the huge roast baron-of-beef, which was made from the two hind legs of one of Her Majesty’s own shorthorn oxen.

Even Her Majesty’s plum pudding was of such a royal size that slices were cut from it and sent to all her nearest relatives: the first slice in later years was reserved for her imperial grandson-in-law, Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, and posted to Saint Petersburg in time for the Russian Orthodox Christmas celebrated on the 7th January.

The first menu appearing on this page is for the Christmas dinner in 1894 served to Queen Victoria at her Osborne residence on the Isle of Wight, which is depicted atop the gilt-edged menu-card. The Queen was accompanied by her daughter the Prince and Princess of Battenberg, the royal grandchildren, the Dowager Lady Churchill and the Duchess of Albany.

The HMS Australia, a Royal Navy cruiser, was stationed as the guardship on the Isle of Wight during the Queen’s stay.

The second menu is from a week later and confirms large amounts of Christmas ‘leftovers’ reappeared at the royal table to kickstart the New Year in 1895.

The table for the Christmas lunch and dinner always featured the very best produce courtesy of royal families from across Europe. The boar’s head was usually a gift from either the Emperor of Germany or the King of Saxony while the Tsar of Russia sent some imperial sturgeons.

The Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin would send the finest terrine of Pâté de Foie Gras, which was encased in pastry to look like a giant pork pie, and the Emperor of Austria would send a dozen bottles of Tokay wine from his personal vineyards.

In return, Queen Victoria would send out 200 Christmas puddings made at Windsor Castle to all her relatives and leading families of Europe. For these, the royal kitchens drained 24 bottles of brandy.

“I went to see the roasting in the kitchen of turkeys, geese, and beef a mighty sight : at least fifty turkeys before one fire”, recounted Viscount Torrington, a Lord-in-Waiting to Queen Victoria.

“The Lord Lieutenant of Ireland”, continued the Viscount, “by custom or law, sends over every year a large woodcock pie. This one is composed of one hundred birds”.

Because the kitchens at Osborne were too small to cook the Christmas feast, all the main dishes were prepared at Windsor Castle and sent by royal yacht to arrive at Osborne on Christmas Eve. The dinner started at 9pm and concluded with pots and stilton cheese and plates of fruit in the off-chance guests could still be feeling hungry.

 

Royal Christmas: an 1889 newspaper print of Her Majesty's Christmas sideboard shows (from left to right): whole stuffed wild boar's head; Brawn; Baron-of-Beef decorated with shredded horseradish formed to write the year; woodock pie and game pie.

From the private Royal Menu Collection of © Jake Smith

Christmas Day Dinner 1894 and New Year's Day Dinner 1895 at Osborne House, Isle of Wight, hosted by Her Majesty Queen Victoria of Great Britain

Any concerns that it is somehow “low brow” to serve Christmas dinner leftovers to guests, are dashed with confirmation that the most regal of dinner hosts, Queen Victoria, served her recycled yuletide dishes for more than a week after Christmas Day.